Introduction:

When considering permanent makeup (PMU), some individuals may feel apprehensive due to concerns about undesirable colour outcomes, such as red brows or grey tones. Understanding the reasons behind these colour challenges and finding effective solutions is essential for a successful PMU experience. In this blog, we will explore the factors that can cause colour variations in PMU and provide specific insights on how to address them.

Red Brows:

One of the reasons for red residue in old PMU eyebrows is the natural breakdown of inorganic pigments, also known as iron oxide pigments. Over time, these pigments can oxidise and change colour, resulting in a reddish or rusty residue. Factors such as exposure to sunlight, skincare products, and individual skin characteristics contribute to pigment breakdown and colour changes. Avoiding the use of warm modifiers and selecting suitable pigments for warm skin tones can help prevent this issue. 

Salmon Pink Hues:

PMU eyebrows aging to salmon pink can be attributed to chemical changes in certain colorants, particularly iron oxide pigments. Exposure to UV light, environmental factors, and individual skin characteristics can all contribute to the degradation of pigments over time. As the pigments break down, the original colour may shift or fade, resulting in a pink or salmon hue. To minimise this effect, it is crucial to choose high-quality pigments with equal fading properties in all the colours used.

Purple Undertones:

Aging eyebrows developing a purple hue are commonly observed in PMU eyebrows initially tattooed with cool-toned or blue-based pigments. As the pigments break down, if the colour fastness is not of high enough quality the yellow will fade out leading to a purple or bluish undertone.  This is commonly seen in fair skinned women with very dark blackish eyebrows, and a reason why educated PMU artists advise against placing pigment this dark on a light skin tone.

Greyish Tones:

Think of a pair of black jeans left on the washing line all summer – they will without exception fade, and usually to a greyish tone if enough UV exposure occurs.  The same happens with black pigment.  It cannot hold the true blackness first applied and as a natural process will lighten and colour shift.  If the grey is not a result of fading black, it can be a pigment that is not binded enough to make it colourfast, and the warmth that created the ideal colour has faded away leaving a cold tone, and grey brows in ins place.  

Factors Affecting PMU Color:

Achieving the desired colour outcome in PMU is influenced by various factors. Individual skin characteristics, including density, moisture balance, age, and lifestyle factors, all impact how pigments interact with the skin. Additionally, the chosen technique and pigment colours play crucial roles in achieving desired results. Considering these factors during the PMU process can help ensure long-lasting and appealing colour outcomes.

The Importance of Pigment Quality:

Selecting high-quality pigments is crucial for achieving the desired longevity and colour in PMU. Certain manufacturers go the extra mile by fusing pigment molecules together, promoting uniform fading of different colours over time. Opting for reputable brands with expertise in PMU manufacturing, rather than tattoo inks, is essential. These brands understand the unique challenges faced by facial skin and can provide pigments tailored for long-term colour stability.

Red pigments can be cooled quite easily but grey pigments are more difficult and sometimes impossible to bring back to balance.  

In untrained hands coolness can result from incorrect needle depth.  Warm tones can show when pigment is diluted and shaded, this spreading of the pigment allows a different and warmer reflection in the skin.  

Conclusion:

Understanding the reasons behind colour challenges in PMU is vital for achieving successful and satisfying outcomes. Factors such as pigment selection, technique chosen for your individual skin characteristics, exposure to UV light, and pigment quality (colour fastness) all contribute to colour variations over time. One thing is for sure, as soon as you see colour shift you need to address it.  What can start as a simple fix can become a problem that won’t be addressed by a simple colour correction.  By working with experienced PMU artist who you know only selects high-quality pigments, and following proper aftercare practices, the risk of undesired colour changes can be minimised. The response to fix it when it happens can remedy and avoid any problems.  Remember to seek professional advice specific to your situation to determine the best course of action and maintain the desired appearance of your permanent makeup.